Located further into the Kalash Valleys is the village of Sheikhanandeh (often spelled “Sheikhandeh,” though “Sheikhanandeh” is the more common pronunciation). This is a Muslim village within the Kalasha Valleys. While there are many Muslim villages in the region, Sheikhanandeh is special; its people are the descendants of those from Nuristan (formerly known as Kafiristan) in Afghanistan.

↓↓ Buzkashi of Sheikhanandeh

The Conversion of the Nuristani People

Formerly, this region was known as “Kafiristan” (the Land of the Kafirs, or “infidels”), where unique polytheism and animism were practiced. However, between 1895 and 1896, the region was subjected to military invasion and forced conversion by the then Emir of Afghanistan, Abdur Rahman Khan. Following the conquest and conversion, the Emir renamed the land “Nuristan,” meaning the “Land of Light” or the “Enlightened Land.”

The people of Sheikhanandeh are descendants of those who arrived from the Afghan side, escaping the upheaval of the late 1800s and early 1900s, or migrating after their eventual conversion to Islam. Linguistically, they remain separate from their Kalash neighbors, speaking Kati (one of the Nuristani languages) instead of Kalash. As Urdu is not widely spoken in the village, the inhabitants rely on Khowar, the common language of the region, for communication with outsiders.

Preserving the Tradition of Buzkash

Sheikhanandeh is one of the rare places in Pakistan where Buzkashi—the national sport of Afghanistan—is still practiced today. This rugged equestrian sport was brought over from the Afghan side by their ancestors. It stands as a powerful symbol of their resilience and strength, forged by a life in the harsh mountain terrain.

Originating in the steppes of Central Asia, Buzkashi is a traditional horseback sport of legendary intensity. Famous as Afghanistan’s national sport, it maintains a fervent following across neighboring regions, from northern Pakistan to Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and Uzbekistan.

Instead of a ball, the game is played with a headless and limbless goat carcass. In the Buzkashi of Sheikhanandeh, the competition begins in the river. The prepared carcass is kept cool in the flowing water, and the match officially starts the moment it is hoisted out of the river.

In Buzkashi, two groups of riders compete to seize the goat carcass. The name literally reflects the action, coming from the Persian words ‘Buz’ for goat and ‘kashi’ for pulling or dragging.

After the intense match, the meat is never wasted. It is distributed among the riders and villagers to be eaten. It is said that the struggle of the game causes the blood to marinate the meat, making it exceptionally tender and ideal for stews. Furthermore, eating this meat is believed to bring both strength and good fortune.

The riders of Buzkashi are known as ‘Chapanbaz,’ and they are revered as heroes within their community.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA

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