buzkashi – Re:Discover Pakistan

Located further into the Kalash Valleys is the village of Sheikhanandeh (often spelled “Sheikhandeh,” though “Sheikhanandeh” is the more common pronunciation). This is a Muslim village within the Kalasha Valleys. While there are many Muslim villages in the region, Sheikhanandeh is special; its people are the descendants of those from Nuristan (formerly known as Kafiristan) in Afghanistan.

↓↓ Buzkashi of Sheikhanandeh

The Conversion of the Nuristani People

Formerly, this region was known as “Kafiristan” (the Land of the Kafirs, or “infidels”), where unique polytheism and animism were practiced. However, between 1895 and 1896, the region was subjected to military invasion and forced conversion by the then Emir of Afghanistan, Abdur Rahman Khan. Following the conquest and conversion, the Emir renamed the land “Nuristan,” meaning the “Land of Light” or the “Enlightened Land.”

The people of Sheikhanandeh are descendants of those who arrived from the Afghan side, escaping the upheaval of the late 1800s and early 1900s, or migrating after their eventual conversion to Islam. Linguistically, they remain separate from their Kalash neighbors, speaking Kati (one of the Nuristani languages) instead of Kalash. As Urdu is not widely spoken in the village, the inhabitants rely on Khowar, the common language of the region, for communication with outsiders.

The goats on the terrace are kept for their milk

Unlike the Kalash, this village is home to a conservative Muslim community. The children watch visiting foreigners from a distance.

Preserving the Tradition of Buzkash

Sheikhanandeh is one of the rare places in Pakistan where Buzkashi—the national sport of Afghanistan—is still practiced today. This rugged equestrian sport was brought over from the Afghan side by their ancestors. It stands as a powerful symbol of their resilience and strength, forged by a life in the harsh mountain terrain.

Originating in the steppes of Central Asia, Buzkashi is a traditional horseback sport of legendary intensity. Famous as Afghanistan’s national sport, it maintains a fervent following across neighboring regions, from northern Pakistan to Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and Uzbekistan.

The competition kicks off the moment they pull the goat carcass from the river

Instead of a ball, the game is played with a headless and limbless goat carcass. In the Buzkashi of Sheikhanandeh, the competition begins in the river. The prepared carcass is kept cool in the flowing water, and the match officially starts the moment it is hoisted out of the river.

Tugging and pulling the goat while mounted on horses

In Buzkashi, two groups of riders compete to seize the goat carcass. The name literally reflects the action, coming from the Persian words ‘Buz’ for goat and ‘kashi’ for pulling or dragging.

The match is not limited to the village square; it takes place across any terrain where horses can run, including the riverbanks and the village paths

After the intense match, the meat is never wasted. It is distributed among the riders and villagers to be eaten. It is said that the struggle of the game causes the blood to marinate the meat, making it exceptionally tender and ideal for stews. Furthermore, eating this meat is believed to bring both strength and good fortune.

The riders of Buzkashi are known as ‘Chapanbaz,’ and they are revered as heroes within their community.

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA

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Buzkashi being held on the shores of Lake Chaqmaqtin, Wakhan corridor, in summer. It is practised among the Kyrgyz peoples of the Wakhan corridor at weddings as well as during Eid, the Islamic festival of sacrifice.

>Re-discovering Afghanistan: Wakhan Corridor, and the Kyrgyz in the Afghan Pamir

Buzkashi is the national sport of Afghanistan, in which two groups of horse riders compete for a goat. In Persian, it means exactly what it sounds like: goat = buz , pulling= kashi. I saw buz kashi on the last day of my three-days stay in a Kyrgyz camp. That was the day when the men I had seen in the camp mounted their horses and, suddenly for the first time, began to looked cool to me. To be honest, up until that point I had felt that while the women were working from the morning milking and making Qurut, the men weren’t doing much to help …

↑↑The Kyrgyz buzkashi being held amidst the spectacular scenery of the Wakhan corridor.

From 1996 to 2001, when the former Taliban (not the current Taliban regime) was in control, many entertainment activities were banned as ‘immoral’ and buzkashi was also banned. Buzkashi has since been revived and is now a major national event, with tournaments organised in each state. While in big cities buzkashi is sometimes held in stadiums in costumes with sponsors’ logos, in rural areas buzkashi is purely a traditional event for people to enjoy.

People heading to wedding .

A sheep being dismembered for a wedding celebration meal.

Kyrgyz girls carrying sheep meat.

A man and his child who came to celebrate and participate in the buzkashi.

Everyone praying and offering food before the Buzkashi. Milk tea and fried bread were served.

Children at play until the buzkashi starts.

A Kyrgyz boy who wants to try buzkashi.

After prayers and food offerings, the buzkashi finally begins.

A goat with its head cut off. The goat used was not the one killed on the day, but a stuffed goat that was prepared in the village for buzkashi.

The goat is thrown down to the earth and the contest begins.

It requires strength and skill to pull this goat up from the ground with one hand and ride while holding it. During all this, the whip is held in the mouth.