Chawmos Festival – Mandaik : The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

Here is a report on the Kalash’s Chawmos Festival. The day after the ritual of ‘Kuta Mru’, the ‘ Mandaik ‘ takes place.”

I woke up at about 4:00 a.m. to the sound of villagers shouting ‘Chi, chi, chi.’ They were ushering the spirits of the Shalabira (sacred figures of markhors and goats made during ‘Kuta Mru’) to the mythical land of Dezhirawat.”

Mandaik: The Ritual to Welcome Ancestral Spirits

In the Kalash language, “to arrive” is called “ik” and “cemetery” is “Mandaw jaw.” Therefore, the terms Mandaik or Madahik literally mean “arriving from the cemetery.” On this day, the Kalash people honor their deceased ancestors, creating a spiritual bridge that unites the living and the dead.

From the morning, people visit the homes of those who have lost family members during the past year. At each home, two specific types of bread are baked for the temple rituals, along with assortments of fruit prepared as sacred offerings.

As dusk falls, the community gathers at the Jestak Han temple. Outside, rows of baskets filled with food for the deceased are carefully placed. Near the temple entrance, a small, tower-like structure called a “Chilikotik” is built from Chilgoza pine sticks.

As more villagers gather, and once the Chilikotik is complete, everyone enters the temple carrying small branches. The Chilikotik is set ablaze, the temple doors are closed, and the people wait inside together until the structure has burned down completely.

According to tradition, a village elder or priest (Kazi) calls out loudly to the spirits: “O ancestors, come, eat, drink, and then depart in peace.” It is believed that while the Chilikotik burns, the ancestral spirits arrive, partake in the offerings, and leave satisfied. Inside, the villagers wait in the dim light, holding small, flickering branches.

Finally, the temple doors swing open. Outside, the Chilikotik has been reduced to ashes. The offerings are then distributed among the villagers as they begin their journey back home.

It is said that on this day, a sense of unease lingers as people believe spirits are wandering about. Consequently, it is a day of solemnity where people refrain from speaking loudly.

Kalash women carrying fruit offerings and visiting homes that have lost family members this year.

Visitors arrive at the home, and the family members express their gratitude.

The home was very lively with many guests. The family kindly shared fruits and ‘Shosh’ (walnut paste) with us as well.

Children in the village were playing with the Sharabira crafted during Kuta Mru. Now that the souls have left the figures, they are simply treated as toys for kids or food for the cattle.

Afternoon, the villagers began baking bread as offerings for Mandaik. Two types of bread are prepared: one to be distributed to the community at the temple, and the other for the souls of the deceased.

When we arrived at the temple around 3 o’clock, not many people had gathered yet, and children were playing nearby.

The preparation of the Chilikotik soon got underway.

Women arriving with baskets of ritual offerings.

The offerings consist of the favorite foods of the deceased. Pumpkins, in particular, are believed to be a ‘food of heaven’ that the spirits of the ancestors truly enjoy.

Inside the temple, food was being gathered to be distributed later.

Children playing at the temple while the adults are busy with preparations

Outside, the Chilikotik is now complete.

Then, everyone enters the temple, each holding a branch in their hand.

A fire was lit in the hearth near the altar, and from there, the flame began to spread to everyone. Soon, the branch I was holding was also set alight.

**The light gradually spreads throughout the temple**

The inside of the temple turned into a truly magical space

It was such a beautiful moment. I was so preoccupied with taking photos that my flame went out, but a girl nearby noticed and immediately relit it for me.

The temple doors finally swung open. This was the signal that the Chilikotik had finished burning. Everyone poured out of the temple all at once.

The lively crowd was busy sharing the ritual food, but by nightfall, a deep silence had returned to the temple.

We look forward to tomorrow: Shishao Adu, the important day for women’s purification.

Text & Photo : Mariko SAWADA

Visit: Dec 2025, Kalash Valley – Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

＊The information presented here is based on interviews with people in the area. Please note that the descriptions and explanations of the rituals may differ depending on the source.

■Chawmos Festival – Kutram: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

■Chawmos Festival – Mandaik : The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

■Chawmos Festival – Shishao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

■Chawmos Festival – Pushao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

■Chawmos Festival – Chanja Rat: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

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＊Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for visiting Kalash valley.

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