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Author: sawada

24.06.2025 update

Islamabad to Skardu Domestic Flight Report

The domestic flight from Islamabad to Skardu is known for its spectacular mountain scenery when the weather is clear. In particular, Nanga Parbat (8,126m), the world’s ninth highest peak, can sometimes be seen directly in front of you (on the right side window seats (F) during outbound flights and the left side window seats (A) during return flights).

 

> A Video Showcasing the View of Nanga Parbat From Flight PK451

 

We generally recommend the Nanga Parbat side, but the view from the other side is quite remarkable as well.
The following is a report of my viewing experiences on both the seat A side (the non-Nanga Parbat side) and the seat F side (the Nanga Parbat side) of PK451, which I recently boarded.

In terms of airlines, both Air Blue and Pakistan International Airlines flights will offer similar views, but it is important to note that the exact scenery you see will differ depending on a number of factors, including the distance and route to Nanga Parbat, the weather, and the captain’s instructions at that time. Please keep that in mind while reading this article.

 

Detailed timeline of a flight scheduled to depart Islamabad 10:00 a.m.

10:10　Takeoff from Islamabad Airport
10:12　Turn around, heading north.
10:14 （A side) Passing over Islamabad Airport

（A side) Passing over Islamabad Airport

10:19-20　(A side) Spotted the Tarbela Dam and the Indus River on the left. During the summer season, the color of the Indus River is muddy due to the melted water from glaciers.

(A side) Spotted the Tarbela Dam

10:20　(A side) Tirich Mir (7,708m), the highest peak in the Hindu Kush, begins to come into view. It is the westernmost peak in the Hindu Kush mountain range, so it is easy to identify. Tirich Mir will remain visible for a while. Noshaq (7,492m), the highest peak of the Hindu Kush in Afghanistan, is just behind Tirich Mir and seems to be hidden from view.

(A side) Tirich Mir (7,708m), the highest peak in the Hindu Kush

10:36　(F side) The 8,126-meter summit of Nanga Parbat lies in front of us. Nanga Parbat itself was visible from a bit earlier in the flight. On this day, we flew a route close to the peak of Nanga Parbat.

（F side)  8,126m peak of Nanga Parbat coming in the view

10:37 (F side) The peak of Nanga Parbat stood directly before our eyes.

(F side) The peak of Nanga Parbat stood directly before our eyes.
(F side) The peak of Nanga Parbat is within reach of your mobile phone camera.♪

10:38　 (A side) The Hunza valley and Rakaposhi (7,788m) can be seen in the distance.

（A side)  Rakaposhi (7,788m)

10:43 　(A side) The steep mountains of the Karakorum, Baintha Brakk (7,285m), Ogre Ogre II, and Latok group (Latok I, II, III) along the Biafo Glacier are visible.

(A side） The towering mountains of Karakoram

10:44    (A Side) K2 (8,611m), the second highest mountain in the world and Broad Peak (8,051m) begin to come into view. By this time, an in-flight announcement about the descent comes on. As the plane lowered altitude, I was impatient as K2 and other high peaks in the mountains in front of us became less and less visible.

K2 (8,611m), the second highest mountain in the world and Broad Peak (8,051m)

10:45    (A side) K2 and Broad Peak, though only about half of each mountain is visible
10:46   (A side) Started descent. The mountains in the foreground are the peaks of the Shigar Valley, including Peak-B12.
10:46   (A side) The Skardu valley is now spread out in front of us; if seated on the F side, one should be able to see Satpara Lake.
10:47　(A side) I could see the runway of Skardu’s airport, which was built in the desert along the Indus River.

Skardu’s airport, which was built in the desert along the Indus River.

10:50    Turned around for the final approach.
10:52    Landed successfully in Skardu Airport, surrounded by mountains. Most tourists took a picture before disembarking from the aircraft and boarding the bus to the terminal.

Landed successfully in Skardu Airport

Skardu used to have only one flight a day from Islamabad, but now during the summer season, there are also flights from Lahore and Karachi, with six flights a day on domestic routes alone. In addition, international flights from Dubai have also started, and Skardu is rapidly growing as a tourist destination and mountain resort. On a clear day, this flight can definitely be counted among one of the area’s prime tourist highlights!

People often ask me whether I prefer the Nanga Parbat side or the K2 side. To that I would simply say that the Nanga Parbat side (the F side) is the one which allows most people to get the best view the majority of the time (provided, of course, that the weather is good).
The mountains visible from the A-side seats are difficult to recognize without prior study or experience, but for repeated trekkers and climbers to Pakistan, the view on the A-side will also be enjoyable, as they will be able to search for the mountains throughout the flight.

Another question I am often asked is which airline operates more smoothly, Pakistan International Airlines or Air Blue? To be honest, it all comes down to luck.

 

Image & Text: Mariko SAWADA

Flight Date: 27 April 2025

*The article uses actual time and photos taken during the flight. The view of the mountains on this route may vary depending on the weather and the route taken at that time. We ask that you take this into consideration before booking a flight.

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for your  stay and adventure  in Pakistan.

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Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Skardu Valley > ◇ Mountain of Pakistan > ◇ Pakistan Travel Tip > - Karakorum Range
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05.05.2025 update

The Indian Pangolin

The following is a report on my experience observing the Indian pangolin. In what amounted to a mysterious coincidence, the day we went to observe them—the third Saturday of February—just so happened to be “World Indian Pangolin Day.”

Indian pangolins do not have fixed dens and change their roosts every two or three days. They also do not have territories, nor do they form groups of any kind. It is therefore difficult to encounter an Indian pangolin, an animal which is roughly the size of a puppy, in their vast sanctuary area—one needs to rely on the help of local rangers to get a glimpse of the scaly creatures. Before our arrival, the rangers had already identified the area in which the animals were most active by searching for both footprints and holes where they were feeding (on ants and termites).

A hole made by an Indian pangolin, in its voracious search for ants

The Indian pangolin, an animal that subsists primarily on ants and termites, has no teeth, and uses its long tongue to catch its prey.

The footprint of an Indian pangolin

Sporting sharp claws just like anteaters, Indian pangolins walk with the soles of their feet on the ground, so as to not hurt their claws.

The only means of protection against enemies the pangolins have is to curl up their hard-scale-covered bodies. These animals, which are the only mammals in the world with scales, have such a strong defense that even African lions are said to be powerless against them. Their biggest external threat is humans: it is reported that more than one million animals were poached in the 10 years between 2006 and 2015. I was personally very shocked to see pangolins for sale at a market in Nigeria, Africa. For poachers, the curled-up pangolins are unfortunately an easy target.

An Indian pangolin lying in the grass
An Indian pangolin curled up in a ball

In Islamabad, one occasionally hears news of Indian pangolins getting rescued. Rescued from where, you may ask? One anecdote in particular recounted how a pangolin was found in a Chinese restaurant. These rescued animals are then checked at a rescue center in Margalla Hill, before eventually being returned to the wild. It is certainly unfortunate to hear news like this.

Once the Indian pangolin curls up, it tends to remain still for quite some time. As we looked at one particular pangolin patiently, we noticed it finally start to move after about 15 minutes. This is not an animal that’s in a rush—they walk slowly and hide in the bushes, where they remain unmoving all the way until nighttime. After dark, perhaps deciding that we were not a foreign enemy, the one we were watching began to stir again, and promptly disappeared deep into the grass.

 

Photo & Text : Chika MURATA

Observation : Feb 2025, Padhri Wildlife Reserve, Pakistan

Visit our web site “Wildlife of Pakistan”

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for your  ” Wildlife observation ” in Pakistan.

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Category : - Pangolin > = Video Clip Punjab > ◆ Punjab > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan
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20.04.2025 update

Chawmos Festival – Chanja Rat: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

Chanja Rat is the day of the big bonfire to bid farewell to Balimain, and it can be considered the climax of the Chawmos Festival. Even people from other villages come to take part in the Tchattai ceremony from early morning.

Young girls all dressed up in the morning.
People visiting from other villages. The men will then head to Sajigor to perform the Tali Histik ritual.
The women who cannot participate in the ceremony chat in the square among themselves. They also partake in recreational singing and dancing.
The men head to Sajigor.

Tali Histik – Pray for the prosperity

Tali Histik is a ritual where people pray for the prosperity of the Kalash and for the birth of more boys. A willow tree branch—of which said tree luckily has many—is prepared for each male member of the family. It is said that the many small branches give the image of a family with many children. If there are 10 men in a given family, an additional branch is added to make a total of 11, at which point the male representative of the family throws the whole bundle. Among the number of men counted are the boys who just completed their passage rites the day before.

Willow branches prepared for the ritual
The men getting ready to throw the branches.
The willow branches are thrown all at once towards the altar.
On their return from Sajigor, the men made their way toward the square while forming a line with their hands on each other’s shoulders.

In the square, people chat and the Chawmos songs and dances continue. In the afternoon, they take a short break in preparation for the evening’s torches and bonfire.

Chanja Rat  – The big bonfire to bid farewell to Balimain

Finally, the climax of the Chawmos Festival, the great bonfire to bid farewell to Balemain, takes place. The actual experience of the chanja rat was truly a “ceremony of fire”, both fantastic and full of vitality.

After sunset, large pieces of wood for the bonfire are carried to the square.
The girls sing around the bonfire while waiting for the torches to be brought.
People carrying torches begin to descend from the village on the mountain.
People coming down the mountain carrying torches.
Groups of people merge, and the light of the torches grows stronger.
People carrying torches head for the square.
The fantastic sight of the Kalash holding torches.
When they arrive at the square, they throw the torches into the bonfire, fueling the fire and making it grow huge.
People singing and dancing around the fire.
For the Kalash people, Chawmos is the festival they enjoy most the whole year.
Chanja Rat: bidding farewell to Balimain.

Witnessing Chanja Rat that night proved to be a dreamlike experience for me. Seeing the Chawmos festival for yourself is a wonderful opportunity to deepen your understanding of Kalash traditions and faith.

 

Text: Mariko SAWADA

Photo: Mariko SAWADA & Jamil

Visit: Dec 2024, Kalash Valley – Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

＊The information presented here is based on interviews with people in the area. Please note that the descriptions and explanations of the rituals may differ depending on the source.

 

＊Chawmos Festival – Kutram: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊Chawmos Festival – Shishao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊Chawmos Festival – Pushao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊Chawmos Festival – Chanja Rat: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊The Joshi Spring Festival: A Kalash Ritual

 

＊Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for visiting Kalash valley.

＊Please follow us on Youtube, Instagram & Facebook

 

Category : - Kalash Valley > ◆Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
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09.04.2025 update

Chawmos Festival – Pushao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

The period of the Kalash Chawmos Festival known as “Ditch” is considered to be highly sacred. On the day of Pushao Adu, two sacrifices are performed: the first, called “Pushao Marat,” is a sacrifice to the gods done at Sajigor, and the second, “Istongas,” is a purification ritual for men. At the same time, a children’s rite of passage known as Goshnik is also performed.

At the guesthouse, the people were all abuzz with chatter. I heard them proclaiming that Balimain has arrived, and that the earthquake they’d had the previous night was actually the sound of Balimain’s arrival. They say that Balimain will stay to watch the sacrificial ceremony and the large bonfire at night, before moving on to the Bumburet Valley.

In the morning, all men in the valley wash their bodies and put on new clothes and shoes. The women wash all dishes and clean the house. After this, in addition to the existing rules about not touching Muslims, new rules are added until the sacred period is over. These rules state that no cleaning is to take place, that bread made before yesterday must not be eaten, and that bread must be made with new flour. Because of this, new dough was not available in time, so we had to have rice from Ayun for breakfast (which was very tasty).

Villagers singing and dancing from the early morning.

Pushao Marat – Sacrifice to God　

In the morning, the villagers gathered in the square to sing and dance, and at about 10:00 a.m., the large male goats selected from each family were taken to Sajigor. The men began to walk to Sajigor alongside the animals. Since women are not allowed to participate in the sacrificial ritual, this photo was taken by a Kalash man. While the ritual was happening, the women celebrated by singing and dancing.

Male goats for sacrifice go to Sajigor. The most magnificent male goat from each stable is chosen.
Upon arrival at Sadigor, preparations for the ritual begin.
A goat with fine horns like a markhor’s.
More than 30 male goats were sacrificed to the gods that day.
The altar of sacrifice.
The meat of the sacrificial goats is eaten especially during the sacred period and also used in a stew called Pushao Mos.

Goshnik – Rite of passage for children　

Goshnik is a rite of passage for children, after which the boy or girl becomes a member of Kalash and observes its commandments. The parents of the child who is to receive the rite prepare fruits and gifts for the uncle who performs the rite. The uncle offers a male goat as a present. The relatives gather for the celebration, and the parents serve fruit and wine. I also saw visiting relatives give money to children undergoing this rite.

An uncle performing the ceremony dresses his nephew in ceremonial garb.
Relatives receiving fruit, dried fruit, and wine from parents.
Two brothers who underwent the ceremony. Boys undergo the Goshnik ceremony twice, once between the ages of 3~5, and the second time between the ages of 5~8. Parents save money by having both brothers perform the ceremony at the same time. Incidentally, girls only have to undergo the Goshnik ceremony once.
Villagers travel around the houses singing and dancing, bringing blessings during the Goshnik ritual.
Villagers clap their hands and sing. The children respond by taking part in a ritual dance.

 Purush Istongas – Sacrifices for the Purification of Men

Sacrifices are performed on the roof of the goat stable. The blood of the sacrifice is sprinkled on the faces of the lined-up men in a purification ritual. The Istongas ritual is held in the evening. This photo was taken by a Kalash man.

The roof of the goat stable is purified and sacrifices are performed.
Blood is sprinkled.
A Kalash man who has now been purified.

The sacrificial goat will be dismembered here and become the meat that is eaten during this sacred period. On this day, I learned a great deal about the beliefs and lifestyle of Kalash, a place where the ritual of sacrifice is still alive.

 

Text: Mariko SAWADA

Photo: Mariko SAWADA & Jamil

Visit: Dec 2024, Kalash Valley – Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

＊The information presented here is based on interviews with people in the area. Please note that the descriptions and explanations of the rituals may differ depending on the source.

 

＊Chawmos Festival – Kutram: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊Chawmos Festival – Shishao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊Chawmos Festival – Pushao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊Chawmos Festival – Chanja Rat: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊The Joshi Spring Festival: A Kalash Ritual

 

＊Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for visiting Kalash valley.

＊Please follow us on Youtube, Instagram & Facebook

Category : - Kalash Valley > ◆Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
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14.03.2025 update

Chawmos Festival – Shishao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

The ceremony to welcome the god Balimain of Kalash had finally begun. The following is a report on the women’s purification day known as “Shishao Adu.”

The day before Shishao Adu is a day for preparing the stone slab with which the Shishao, the bread for the women’s purification ceremony, will be made. The men go into the mountains to look for suitable stone slabs and leave them in a safe place, so that the women don’t touch them until they are ready to use. Meanwhile, the women prepare the flour used to make Shishao.

A man carrying the stone slab to be used in the making of Shishao.

On the morning of Shishao Adu, women gather on the riverbank to prepare for the purification. They bathe in the hut and wash their hair. After this, they cannot bathe until the sacred period is over.

Girls making themselves ready.

Shishao Adu is a day of purification for women. After this day, no newcomers are allowed to enter the Rumbur Valley. No exception is made for foreigners, nor for Muslims living in the valley—they are likewise not allowed to enter the village of Kalash. The female Kalash relatives who come from Bumburet to celebrate the children’s rite of passage known as “Goshnik” must also undergo this purification. We foreigners were also purified. When I walked around the village, people asked me if I had showered, and if I was wearing new clothes. They believe that if anyone who does not follow the regulations of the Kalash religion is in the valley, it will bring them misfortune.

Shishao making begins at the Temple.

A man kneads purified dough to be used for the making of Shishao. The men’s hands are purified, and they are not allowed to touch anything other than the ingredients for Shishao—including themselves.

Using stone slabs and stones from the mountains, the men crush the walnuts which will act as filling for the bread.

Men are required to bake five Shishao for each female member of the family, and in families with many female members, baking Shishao can start even in the early morning.

The women’s purification ritual, Shishao Suchek, had begun. The women prepared new clothes, and some of the girls were dressed up almost as much as they are during the spring Joshi festival.

First, one must purify their hands with water.
Five pieces of “Shishao” (walnut bread) are handed out.
The women are purified with smoke from a flaming juniper branch.

A woman with a very innovative headdress. She said her mother made it for her.

A traditional-style headdress known as a Kupas. Its colors are very modern. The traditional materials and colors that are typically shown in books are nowhere to be seen these days. It seems that Kalash women are always chasing the latest fashions.

The Shishao Suchek ritual at Temple Jestak Han had finally begun. Notably, it can also take place outside, in the open air.

Female members of the family gathering at the temple.
A girl receiving purification.
The female purification ritual, Shishao Suchek.

After this purification, the woman must remain pure for seven days. This involves a serious of strict rules, such as not touching Muslims, not eating chicken, eggs, cow’s milk & dairy products, honey, and so on.

Getting the opportunity to see these people live their lives and practice their faith was truly a beautiful sight.

 

Text & Photo: Mariko SAWADA

Visit: Dec 2024, Kalash Valley – Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

＊The information presented here is based on interviews with people in the area. Please note that the descriptions and explanations of the rituals may differ depending on the source.

 

＊Chawmos Festival – Kutram: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊Chawmos Festival – Shishao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊Chawmos Festival – Pushao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊Chawmos Festival – Chanja Rat: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊The Joshi Spring Festival: A Kalash Ritual

 

＊Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for visiting Kalash valley.

＊Please follow us on Youtube, Instagram & Facebook

Category : - Kalash Valley > ◆Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
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27.02.2025 update

Chawmos Festival – Kutram: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

It is early December in the Kalash Valley. The harvests have all been completed and the livestock have come down from the mountains. The ceremony to welcome the God Balimain of Kalash has begun. It includes rites of passage, purification, and sacrifice—all culminating in a farewell to Balimain, complete with torches and a large bonfire. The following is a report on a trip that brought me into contact with the rituals of a deep faith that continues to thrive in the modern age.

During the sacred period of Chawmos, Muslims are not allowed to enter the valley. Since neither staff nor drivers from Islamabad could enter the valley, Kalash staff came to Ayun to pick me up.

In the village of Kalash, a lot of laundry was hung out to dry to ensure people can wear new clothes during the sacred period. Before the purification ritual, one must take a bath and put on new clothes.

Sharabira displayed in a house

I made it just in time to be able to observe the Sharabirayak ritual in the Bumburet Valley. The word “Shara” means markhor and the word “Bira” means male goat. After the women bake walnut bread with cheese to be distributed the next day, the men knead dough, which they shape in the form of either markhor or male goats. These statues are then baked in a fireplace. This ritual is called Kutram.

Sharabira making takes place at night. When I visited, there was no electricity in the valley, and I was able to glimpse the beautiful sight of a woman baking walnut bread by the light of a stove fire.

Afterward, the purified man kneads purified dough and begins to sculpt animal shapes.

He proceeded to bake them on the stove.

The completed sharabira on display

The ritual of Kutram is performed in each household as well as in the temple of the goddess Jestak. The wheat collected from each family is used to make a Shara (markhor) at the Jestak Han temple. At night, the men gather to make Sharabira and spend the night painting on the walls and drinking until early in the morning. At around 4:00 a.m., they make a “tchich tchich” sound—intended to resemble the call made when chasing goats—urging the Sharabira to go to a place called “Dezelawat.” The people of Kalash believe that the souls of the Sharabira go to Dezelawat, which is located near the Afghan border.

A drawing of Sharabira on the wall of the Jestak Han temple. Three Shara (markhor) are placed by the altar.

The drawings on the walls of the temple are painted with charcoal made from burning walnut bark prepared by the women.

A painting from Kutram in 2024

For those unfamiliar with the markhor, it is the national animal of Pakistan and is known to be extremely valuable for trophy hunting. In the 2024-25 winter hunting season, permission to hunt three Kashmir markhor was given, and each was auctioned off for between $231,000 and $271,000. It is said that 80% of the income from trophy hunting is returned to the local community, and in order to increase the number of trophies, conservation is carried out. Though this initiative has led to the number of markhor increasing, as someone who loves animals, I feel rather conflicted about this.

Kashimir markhor (Toshi Shasha game reserve)

The markhor is a highly sacred animal to the people of Kalash. They can be seen in Chitral Gol National Park and nearby game reserves. Males with large horns are usually found at higher elevations in the mountains, but during the winter breeding season they come down to lower elevations, making it possible to observe them. The variant in this region is a subspecies, and is known as the Kashmir markhor.

 

Text & Photo: Mariko SAWADA

Visit: Dec 2024, Kalash Valley, Toshi Shasha – Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

＊The information presented here is based on interviews with people in the area. Please note that the descriptions and explanations of the rituals may differ depending on the source.

 

＊Chawmos Festival – Kutram: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊Chawmos Festival – Shishao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊Chawmos Festival – Pushao Adu: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊Chawmos Festival – Chanja Rat: The Kalash Rituals Still Alive to This Day

＊The Joshi Spring Festival: A Kalash Ritual

 

＊Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for visiting Kalash valley.

＊Please follow us on Youtube, Instagram & Facebook

Category : - Kalash Valley > ◆Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
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02.02.2025 update

Deosai National Park Wildlife Camp in Autumn – In Search of the Himalayan Brown Bear

In autumn, we went to Deosai National Park in search of Himalayan brown bears before they hibernate. This is a report on the wildlife of the plateau as autumn deepens.

We entered Deosai National Park from the Chilum Check Post on the Astor side. At the entrance, there was a very beautiful photo of a Himalayan brown bear in summer.

At Chilum Check post at the entrance to the national park

From the entrance to the National Park in Chilam, we gained more and more altitude as we headed toward the plateau. On the way, we observed birds. We were able to spot only a few birds on the plateau this time—we found many more on the way up from Chilam to Sheosar Lake.

A juvenile fore-fronted serin. Often seen on the road from the Astor Valley to the Deosai Plateau
A Siberian stonechat, a passage migrant
A robin accentor. It can be seen from the Astor Valley to Deosai, where it migrates to an altitude of around 2,000m in winter.

As we approached Sheosar Lake with Nanga Parbat in sight, we saw an animal that looked like a dog ahead of us. “Do dogs come here?” I asked to the staff.  “No, I don’t think so—it’s too far from the houses,” he replied. We searched for a while but could not find the animal. Thinking we had simply misidentified it, we went to the shore of Sheosar Lake instead. There, we happened to come across the animal in question—it had been a wolf. In the Deosai Plateau, Tibetan wolves are more difficult to run into than even brown bears!

A Tibetan wolf: A medium-sized wolf and subspecies of the grey wolf. It is found in Tibet and the Himalayan region.
Tibetan wolf

This wolf did not appear to be a pack member, but rather a lone wolf. We had two subsequent opportunities to observe Tibetan wolves at a distance during our stay on the Deosai Plateau, but both times they were alone. The national park staff also found it unusual to see wolves three times during our five-day stay, and speculated that the wolves might have been actively hunting for marmots before the rodents entered hibernation.

Once on the Deosai Plateau, we passed through Sheosar Lake and Kala Pani to the campsite at Bara Pani.

Nanga Parbat (8,126m), the world’s 9th highest peak, seen from Sheosar Lake (4,200m)
long-tailed marmot

There are many tourists in the vicinity of Sheosar Lake, and the long-tailed marmots show up expecting to be fed. Some of them are quite accustomed to people—no doubt the national park authority should be stricter about tourists feeding the wild animals.

Our camp in Bara Pani. This is a private camp established in the ranger staff facility area. The Indus Caravan camping team, active in the mountains during the summer, has set up a tent, a dining tent, and a toilet tent. We camped out in the wilderness, with a river flowing right in front of our tents.

A winter migratory Pallas gull that was always in the river in front of our tents
Every morning, a pair of common mergansers could be seen in the river. These are also winter migratory birds.
Walking on the Deosai Plateau. The snow-capped mountain in the distance is Nanga Parbat (8,126m).

We spotted a male Himalayan brown bear. We photographed him from a distance so he wouldn’t notice us. The wind direction was not in our favor, so we were only able to observe it from a distance. We then tried to get closer to the mother and cubs who were behind this bear.

Himlayan brown bear

We spotted a male Himalayan brown bear. We photographed him from a distance so he wouldn’t notice us. The wind direction was not in our favor, so we were only able to observe it from a distance. We then tried to get closer to the mother and cubs who were behind this bear.

What an adorable sight: a Himalayan brown bear and her cub
Walking on the plateau is difficult. The uneven terrain and wetlands in this area make traversal tricky—one has to be very careful.
Himalayan brown bear

The Himalayan brown bear is a subspecies of brown bear that inhabits the northern mountainous regions of India, Pakistan, and Afghanistan. In the last census (2022), the presence of 77 of these animals was confirmed in the national park. Three animals were fitted with transmitters in the autumn of 2023, and their previously unknown hibernation sites were at last discovered. Two of the three had descended into the Astor Valley to hibernate, and one was hibernating near Bara Pani on the Deosai Plateau.

Himalayan brown bear

The wind was on our side, and the brown bears began to come closer to us. They seemed to know that something was out there and watched us with interest.

An adorable-looking Himalayan brown bear
Picnic lunch on a plateau

We had lunch on the plateau with our observation team. When I served onigiri (rice balls), one of the staff members said, “This is Japan’s anime food!” It turned out that our animal-loving staff also loved Japanese anime.

As an additional note, Himalayan brown bears can be very timid and can only be observed from a distance. The small black dot in the center of the photo below is a Himalayan brown bear. At night, however, they become bolder—and even approached our camp.

The small dot in the center is a Himalayan brown bear
A Himalayan brown bear came to the campsite at night.

A Himalayan brown bear appeared at our camp. When no one is around, they approach camps looking for food. This one didn’t run away immediately when we shone a light on it. Though they are rather timid during the day, at night they are very imposing…. I wonder if they think we can’t see them in the dark… Himalayan brown bears came on all four nights we spent there. Moreover, it was a different bear each day. There is an urgent need to control food and garbage at national park campsites to prevent accidents.

 

Text & Photo: Mariko SAWADA

Visit: Sep 2024, Deosai National Park-Gilgit Baltistan

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25.12.2024 update

Over the Baltoro Glacier, the Trek to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C., Part 2

The following is the continuation of a photo report of Teppei Kamitani’s 2024 season excursion to the Baltoro Glacier—titled “Over the Baltoro Glacier to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C.” Many spectacular drone aerial photographs are included within.

The second part of the blog traces and documents (with photos) the trek to Concordia in the following order: [Urdukas → Goro Ⅱ → Concordia → Broad Peak B.C. → K2 B.C.→ Concordia].

Over the Baltoro Glacier, the Trek to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C., Part 1

Day 7: Urdukas to Goro Ⅱ

We left Urdukas at 7:00 a.m. and were up on the Baltoro Glacier within 30 minutes. Today’s route was a continuous up-and-down walk along the moraine of the Baltoro Glacier.
It was a clear day, so even though we were on a glacier, the sunlight made us feel warmer than the real temperature let on. We proceeded deeper into the moraine, wearing light clothing.

The mountain rising high in the front is Gasherbrum IV Peak (7925m)
Gasherbrum Mountains seen behind the glacial lake
Masherbrum (7821m), the 22nd highest peak in the world, designated as K1 according to surveying notation

At 11:45 we arrived at our lunch stop, Goro I (4,100m), where we had ourselves a lavish lunch at a table in the middle of the glacier. On the outward trek, we did not stay here but continued instead on to Goro II.

Arrival at Goro I (4100m). We enjoyed lunch at a table in the middle of a glacier with a luxurious view.
Baltoro Glacier is approximately 100 meters thick, equivalent to 25 floors of a building!

After another 2.5 hours, we arrived at Goro II (4,380m), also a camp on the glacier, at 15:00. After Goro II, we slept on the ice, as the temperature continued to drop in both the morning and evening. It was cloudy on the outward trek, but on the way back to Goro I, we had an excellent view of the Gasherbrum mountains. The -6℃ temperature in the morning, however, was less than excellent. My hands were freezing cold.

At Goro II Camp, treated to a good view of Masherbrum. A glimpse into the tour kitchen and dining room
The Milky Way over Masherbrum
Thisphoto was taken on the way back

Day 8 & 9: GoroⅡ to Concordia

Waking up in the morning at the camp on the glacier, the cold air—which now felt stronger than before—imbued us with a sense of determination. Under slightly overcast skies, we departed for our destination, Concordia. Continuing from the previous day, it was just up and down on the glacier moraine. Thankfully, however, the path was quite gentle and flat in many parts, making for an easy walk.

With the morning sun shining through the clouds, we walked through the icy world to reach Concordia

In the afternoon, cold rain began to fall, which was hard on our tired bodies at the end of the day. We continued further into the depths of the mountain to a campsite where we could see K2 in front of us. Finally, we arrived at the Concordia camp, the turnaround point.
Unfortunately, K2 was still obscured by clouds when we arrived and did not grace us with its presence, but we still held on to hope. We stayed at the Concordia Camp for two days, which served also as time to rest.

When we arrived at Concordia, the snow cover had turned the surroundings into a world of silvery white!
A spectacular serac zone

Day 10 Concordia to Broad Peak B.C.

In the morning, we woke up to steady snowfall. Visibility was almost zero, making it difficult for the porters and horses to move forward, so we had to temporarily postpone our departure and wait until 9:00 a.m. The sun came out before 9:00 a.m., and a blue sky quickly revealed itself before us. It was time to set out!

Early in the morning it was snowing, with zero visibility, but it cleared up around 9:00 a.m.
Now it was time to depart for Broad Peak B.C.!
The ordinary moraine was covered with snow, making it look almost fantastical

We changed to chain spikes/light crampons after 10 minutes of walking and passed through a serac zone. The route seemed to have changed a bit, and the serac was very gentle—traversable even without spikes. After the ups and downs of the large moraine, we simply walked along the side moraine of the Godwin-Austen Glacier, arriving at Broad Peak B.C. at about 14:00.

Broad Peak B.C. in the middle of Godwin-Austen Glacier
Broad Peak seen from the BC is divided into three peaks. From the back left: Broad Peak North Peak, Broad Peak Central Peak, and Broad Peak Main Peak (8,051m)
K2 (8,611m) at sunrise is a breathtaking sight

Day 11 Broad Peak B.C. to K2B.C and Back

Finally, we set out for K2 B.C. This was a day round trip from Broad Peak B.C. We started at 7:00 a.m. and had a very pleasant 2 ½ hour flat walk up an icy area next to a moraine. Then we trekked up and down the messy moraine to our first destination, K2 Memorial. The K2 Memorial is built on a very steep rock slope, so it was tough to climb up, but we visited and said a prayer for the climbers who lost their lives in the mountains of the Baltoro Glacier, including K2. After descending to the bottom of the rock tower, we had a quick lunch of onigiri (rice balls) and then continued further along the gentle moraine, eventually arriving at K2 Base Camp at 11:30!

To K2 B.C.
Memorial to the many climbers who lost their lives in the mountains of the Baltoro Glacier
We reached K2 B.C. (5,150m). Our guide found the fallen K2 BASE CAMP sign in the moraine and took a commemorative photo

Day 12: Broad Peak B.C to Concordia

At Broad Peak B.C., where we stayed for two nights, K2 came into view around 5:35 a.m., glowing in the morning sun, giving the members a chance to gaze at the world’s second highest peak. After breakfast, we headed back to Concordia.

K2 shining in the morning glow seen from Broad Peak B.C.
A view of the base camp. Members gazed at the world’s second highest peak

As on the outward trek, we walked for 3 hours on gentle moraines, passing army camps. After 1 hour of walking along the moraine & serac belt, we arrived at Concordia. At Concordia, the staff had set up camp in the exact same spot as our previous stay and had prepared a welcome drink and lunch for us. I have nothing but gratitude for them and their consistently prompt work.

Passing through the serac belt again, we return to Concordia
Our camp visible at the foot of Mitre Peak, behind the serac belt
At night, the moonlight illuminated the mountains, creating a beautiful scene

We then said goodbye to K2 from Concordia and retraced our outward route for another 5 days, ending our long trek in Askole. The entire trip took 17 days. At the finish line, the staff congratulated us and toasted us with drinks, in the form of Coke. Some of our members commented that they had never enjoyed a Coke so much in their lives. It must have been because of the overwhelming accomplishment they felt after walking all the way back. Thank you very much, everyone!

Today was the day we said goodbye to K2. We were about to go back the way we came

 

Photo & text : Teppei Kamitani

Visit : Aug-Sep 2024 Baltoro Galcier- K2BC

 

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K2 ＆ Baltoro Glacier Trekking 2022 (Part 2) Paiju to Khoburtse

K2 ＆ Baltoro Glacier Trekking 2022 (Part 3) Khoburtse to Urdukas

K2 ＆ Baltoro Trekking 2022 (Part 4) Urdukas to GoreⅡ

K2 ＆ Baltoro Trekking 2022 (Part 5) GoreⅡ to Concordia

Staying in Concordia, surrounded by the high Peaks of the Karakorum: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum Mountain Range

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for your Baltoro Glacier K2BC trek.

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28.11.2024 update

Over the Baltoro Glacier, the Trek to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C., Part 1

The following is a photo report on a 2024 season excursion to the Baltoro Glacier—titled “Over the Baltoro Glacier to Broad Peak B.C. and K2 B.C.“—carried out by Teppei Kamitani, a guide from Japan who has visited and photographed the glacier many times.

The first part of the blog traces and documents (with photos) the first half of the trek in the following order: [Askole → Jhora → Skam Tsok → Paiju → Khoburtse → Urdukas].

My first step was to take a domestic flight from Islamabad to the town of Skardu, the gateway for trekkers in the area. Weather permitting, it’s possible to get a spectacular view of many mountains—including Nanga Parbat—during the flight, but this time it was cloudy and we could not see it. However, had the flight been cancelled, it would have taken two days to travel there on land, so we considered ourselves lucky that we were able to arrive safely.

Town of Skardu, the gateway to trekkers

The day after arrival at Skardu was also a backup day in case of flight cancellations, as well as for obtaining permits and other bureaucratic formalities. During this time, it was possible to head out to the Deosai Plateau to acclimatize oneself to the altitude of 4,200 m.

The following day, we headed to Askole, the starting point of the trek. The route took us through the Shigar Valley, passing the Sarfaranga Cold Desert and viewpoints overlooking the valley. The road became steeper and steeper as we approached Ascole, with more ups and downs along the riverside slopes.

Heading towards Askole by ４WD

Day 1: Askole-Korophong-Jhola

At long last, the trek began from the lush green village of Askole. On the way, we completed the various formalities at the office in Testay Village, the last inhabited settlement in this vicinity. Beyond this point, a vast, uninhabited path stretched out before us.

Starts in the lush green village of Askole
Walking through desolate land

About four and a half hours after leaving Askole, we had lunch at Korophong, a camp in the end moraine of the Biafo Glacier, which flows from the Latok Mountains. We continued walking along the Braldu River and Jhola Camp came into view on the other side of the Domordo River. Here we crossed the recently opened Snow Leopard Bridge to reach the new Jola Camp.

Lunch at Korophong inside the Biafo Glacier
New Jhora Camp, located along the riverbank

Day 2: Jhola to Skam Tsok

The trail follows the Braldu River with gentle ups and downs, the second half of the day walking along the cliffs. When Skam Tsok comes into view in the distance, we saw Broad Peak (8,051m), the 12th highest peak in the world.

Broad Peak(8,051m) can be seen in the distance

We arrived in Skam Tsok at 11:20, taking about four and a half hours. After lunch, we relaxed with a tea break to keep our spirits up.

Skam Tsok camp and the big rainbow in the sky

Day 3: Skam Tsok to Paiju

This was the day of the half-day walk to Paiju, the camp in front of the glacier. Two and a half hours after we’d passed the gentle ups and downs from Skam Tsok, the Baltoro Glacier began to come into view. The iconic mountains of the Baltoro Glacier, such as Trango Castle and Cathedral, were also visible.

We continued up and down the river bank path
We crossed the log bridge carefully
The Baltoro Glacier finally came into view

The second half of the route followed a traverse path to reach Paiju Camp (3,450m), which was covered with poplar trees. The clean mountain water jabbered around us, and even gave us the opportunity to wash our clothes. We put chairs in front of our tent and had ourselves a relaxing afternoon. We were refreshed for the trek up the Baltoro Glacier…

Before Paiju, the trail enters the cliff path again, with more ups and downs
The campsite at Paiju was delightfully well-shaded. Once up on the glacier, there would be no shade at all

Day 4: Paiju to Khoburtse

At long last, this was the day we’d walk to the Baltoro Glacier—though it would end up being a long one. We walked to the Baltoro Glacier and reached the glacier tongue in ninety minutes.

Finally, the edge of the Baltoro Glacier tongue

There was a bit of sunshine at first, but clouds started to gather from the lower part of the Pailu and it began to rain. We followed the glacier’s outlet, gradually making our way up the mountainside, and had lunch at Liligo. From here, wearing helmets, we crossed a slope where there was a risk of landslides. What awaited us at the end, on the opposite bank of the glacier river, was the camp of Khoburtse (3,940m)!

Thanks to this small wooden bridge, we didn’t have to wade across the river. We crossed the bridge on our way to the Khoburtse campsite
The North Star, Trango Castle, Biale, and the Cathedral …. night photography at Khoburtse Camp site

Days 5 & 6: Khoburtse to Urdukas

We spent four hours trekking to Urdukas (4,050m). The plan for today was not to enter the Baltoro Glacier, but to cross two unnamed glaciers on its tributaries. As we made our way up the gently sloping upper reaches of the glacier, there was a point where we could see Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II, III and IV, but this time they were obscured by clouds.

Morning in Khoburtse. The rocky peak in the foreground is Trango Castle (5753m)
We didn’t enter the Bartolo Glacier, but traversed the side slopes. There was a lot of up and down

Urdukas means “broken boulder,” so it was fitting that there were actually boulders scattered around the campsite. The Baltoro Glacier lay directly in front, and beyond that, the Trango mountain range, the Cathedral, the Biale Glacier flowing down from Biale, and other famous peaks and glaciers could be seen in a panoramic view.

Urdukas camp site where we stay for two nights, is a high vantage point overlooking the Baltoro Glacier.
The Baltoro Glacier and rock peaks as seen from the rock terrace of Urdus camp
The Baltoro Glacier and the famous mountain range in the direction we are heading to

This trip would not have been possible without the support of the local staff.
We stayed at the Urdukas camp, which had running water, for two nights, including a rest day. I think this break probably really helped our guides refresh mentally as well. The local staff who supported the trip also took a break and sang along, following Ali’s lead.

Ali led the porters in singing

 

To be continued in the second half…

 

Photo & text : Teppei Kamitani

Visit : Aug-Sep 2024 Baltoro Galcier- K2B.C.

 

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K2 ＆ Baltoro Glacier Trekking 2022 (Part 2) Paiju to Khoburtse

K2 ＆ Baltoro Glacier Trekking 2022 (Part 3) Khoburtse to Urdukas

K2 ＆ Baltoro Trekking 2022 (Part 4) Urdukas to GoreⅡ

K2 ＆ Baltoro Trekking 2022 (Part 5) GoreⅡ to Concordia

Staying in Concordia, surrounded by the high Peaks of the Karakorum: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum Mountain Range

*Contact us, Indus Caravan for more information or to make arrangements for your Baltoro Glacier K2BC trek.

*Please follow us on Youtube, Instagram & Facebook

Category : - Baltoro Glacier & Concordia > - Baltoro Glacier & Concordia > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > ◇ Mountain of Pakistan
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09.11.2024 update

Shimshal Pamir & Summiting Minglik Sar (6,050m), Part 2

ミングリク・サール山頂付近から望むヒスパー・ムスターグ山脈
Hispár Mústag mountain range seen from near the summit of Minglik Sár.

The following is a documentation of the second part of our Shimshal Pamir mountain journey in Aug-Sep 2024, tracing the route from the ascent of Minglik Sar (6,050m) to the return to Shimshal village.

Click here for Part 1.

Day 7: Summit of Minglik Sar (6,050m)

At midnight, the first and second parties left Minglik Sar B.C. The temperature outside was -7°C. We continued walking, using walkie-talkies to communicate with each other. We moved on, checking our footholds with headlamps. Step by step, we climbed up the steep gullies.

We arrived at the top of the ridge (about 5,320m). The first and second parties met, and the second party passed ahead. Soon after the sun came up and the landscape changed. After a rocky ridge, we arrived at a direct climbing spot on a snowy surface.

ガレ場の急登稜線を越えると、まもなく雪面へ
After crossing a steep ridge in a gully, we soon reached the snow surface.

Here we put on crampons and roped up in preparation for our push to the summit. The leading guide kick-stepped ahead and left tracks for those following behind. With the stunning mountain range in the background, we aimed for the summit step by step. K2 was now visible on our right!

After crossing a total of three crevasses, we finally reached the summit. The second team was there waiting for the first to arrive!

After crossing a total of three crevasses, we finally reached the summit. The second team was there waiting for the first to arrive!

一歩一歩着実に頂上を目指す
Reaching the summit steadily, step by step.
果てしなく感じた頂上への登り　前方に先行したセカンド隊
The seemingly endless climb to the summit. Second party ahead of us.
山頂付近より　ヒスパー・ムスターグ山脈の素晴らしい展望
From near the summit-top, wonderfull view of the Hisper-Mustagh mountain
遂に、ミングリク･サール(6,050m)登頂！！！
Summit of Mingrik Sar (6,050m)!
絶景を噛みしめます
Surrounded by spectacular scenery

As we continued, the hard, compacted snow had softened and made for an easier descent, but we couldn’t afford to let our guard down. We descended step by step. We could see B.C. below us, but it seemed far away.

慎重に下ります
View on the way down

After a nerve-wracking descent, complete with stumbling climbers and falling rocks, the last member returned to B.C. just as the sun was getting ready to set… It was a long haul, but everyone’s hard work paid off!

Day 8: B.C. (4,730m) to Arbob Paryen (3,900m)

The next morning, I woke up to the sound of yak calls. Continuing from the previous day, we started our descent under a clear blue sky. We retraced the same route as the upward journey.

ミングリク･サールB.C.の朝
Morning at Minglik Sar B.C
アルバ・プリエン(3,900m)を目指す
Walking towards Arbob Paryen(3,900m)

On the way down to Shuw Jerab, we saw the west face of Shispare (7,611m) on our left.

シスパーレ(7,611m)西壁
The west face of Shispare (7,611m)

We took a break at Chikor. The team also took some time to relax.

チコールにて休憩　リラックスムードが漂う
Lunch at Chikor

We safely passed through a zone of falling rocks and arrived at a campsite with reddish soil in the evening. We had entered an area below 4,000m in altitude, and the air suddenly felt thick and warm.

Day 9: Arbob Paryen (3,900m) to Past Furzin (3,550m)

Today’s agenda was to climb up from the campsite in the hollow valley terrain and head towards the core area. There were dangerous parts on the descent that were more difficult than the ascent, so there was always a sense of tension in the air.

パスト・フルズィン(3,550m)へ
To Past Fruzin(3,550m)

From Paryen Sar (3,850m) to Paryen Ben, and from there to the suspension bridge before Wuch Fruzin, we steadily descended with man-to-man support. As the lower part of the route came into view the route grew tougher both physically and mentally, but we all made it through safely.

緊張感のある下りが続く
The tension-filled descent continued

After that, we continued on the narrow cliff path to Past Furzin (3,550m).

パスト・フルズィン(3,550m)のキャンプ地
The camp at Pat Furzin(3,550m)

Day 10: Past Furzin (3,550m) to Shimshal Village (3,100m)

After the summit day, the weather improved and we had a clear day for our final march. We patiently continued along the cliff path, and finally the view ahead of us began to open up. We arrived at our first day’s campsite, Ghar-e-Sar (3,670m). From here, we walked to the river at our own pace.

トレッキング最終日。シムシャール村(3,100m)へ！
The last day of trekking. Heading for Shimshal Village (3,100m)
崖道を進む
Continue along the slading area
初日のキャンプ地ガ ーレ・サールに到着
Arrival at Ghar-e-Sar, the camp site on the first day

And at last, we could see the village of Shimshal! After the cliff path, we went down to the riverbed. After having our final lunch at the hut, we walked along the flat path towards the village.

川のむこうはシムシャール村！
The other side of the river is the village of Shimshal

Our Shimshal Pamir mountain trip seemed long but passed quickly. We arrived at the village, reluctant to leave the steep approach and the cold of the high-altitude camp. We were given hot water in a large bucket and were able to refresh both our body and mind.

コーラで乾杯の準備
Get ready to toast with Coke!

The guides and porters who had looked after us visited us for dinner and we had a farewell party.

お別れの儀
Saying farewell

The ten-day trek seemed long, but it passed in an instant. It was not an easy mountain climb, but the view from the summit was exceptional, and the sense of achievement after all the hard work was great, making it a special experience that could never be had anywhere else, on any other route.

 

Photo & Text : Osamu KUSUNOKI

Visit : August 2024, Shimshal Pamir, Shimshal, Gilgit-Baltistan

 

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Shimshal Pamir: Will you try the Kuch? I did!

Where is Shimshal Pamir?

”Kuch”, a summer in Shimshal Pamir

★★★★★

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