Gadani Ship Breaking Yard

Have you ever wondered what happens to ships at the end of their service? …used to be that they would sink into the sea in the past, but now parts are often being dismantled and reused where possible. In postwar Japan, there was a rush to build ships, but these warships became unnecessary and various countries were dismantling them. Now the countries dismantling them are mostly in SE Asia. In Gadani they practice a technique called beaching. During the high tide, the boats will be hauled up on the sandy beach and then cut down for the steel and other recyclable parts.

According to the past records, the shipyard takes up about 10 kilometers of the Gadani shoreline and in the 1980’s there were 30,000 people working there, making it the largest in the world.
In 2016, there was a huge accident causing many casualties, so many new laws and regulations requiring insurance for the workers was enforced by the new government. When we visited, there were only a few shipyard businesses operating at that time.

 

At 2 PM, after his lunch break, this worker is getting back to work.

 

Huge coastal oil tankers and cruise ships are taken apart using manual labor.

 

We observed from afar so as not to get in the way as they worked.

 

The shore of Gadani…several ships on the exhausted shore.

When we visited the shipyard, there were demolition yard workers who seemed to be local Baloch people, as well as Pashtuns from far away Swat Valley. These hard-working Pashtun men left a lasting impact as they looked so strong, bright and masculine in such a harsh working environment.

 

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit: Nov 2019, Ship breaking yard of Gadani, Balochistan

Category : ◆ Balochistan
Tag : , , , , , , , , , ,

Mohenjodaro

This is the ruins of the Indus Valley Civilization, the city of Mohenjo-daro (also Moenjodaro).

It is the site of the largest urban archeological settlement, with its most active period between 2500 to 1800 BC. It is believed that up to 40,000 people inhabited this area, in the east is a fortified section (There is a Gandhara stupa, Ritual bath believed to have been used for religious ceremonies, bathing or purifying, and for political gatherings) and divided on the western side (there were houses for the nobles, shops and commoners homes also). So far, only 10 percent of the area has been excavated, and scattered all around are unexcavated mounds.

Meaning “Mound of the Dead people” in Sindhi the local language, back in the old days, this burial place was a site that locals were afraid to come close. In 1921 an Indian archeologist excavated the site calling it the “2nd and 3rd Century Gandhara” but upon exploring it, they had uncovered a city ruins of the Indus Valley Civilization, much older than they thought.

Extensive excavations were carried out by the Archeological Survey of India (A.S.I)  during the British India period until 1947. In 1980 it was designated a World Heritage Site. It is still unclear what might have caused the decline of the city. During the survey, a seal was discovered, but because the text of the Indus script that is engraved on the seal has not been deciphered yet, the true name of the town is unknown.

 

This Mohenjodaro  SD Area’s Gandhara Stupa, which dates back to 2nd or 3rd Century AD. There is a monastery surrounding the area which is built using bricks from the Indus Valley Civilization.

 

The famous “Great bath” area is 12m x 7m and 2.5m deep, and there are remain of  waterproofing on the elaborate wall made of bricks. It is said  that some religious ceremony was held here.  The stepped ghats (terraces) descending to the surface of the water are supposed to lead to Hindu features later.

 

A sewage system in the SD Area. It is covered with limestone rocks. Some of the DK area is built entirely underground.

 

This is also the sewage system in the SD area. Water from the Great Bath and other dwellings are directed through this channel to the Indus river. During that time, the Indus River ran very close to the town of Mohenjo-daro.

 

In the corner of this DK area home, is a “Rubbish Bin.” Similar efforts for “Trash collection” areas are also seen in the SD areas as well. Unfortunately, this concept of managing their garbage wasn’t carried into modern pakistan.

 

In the Urban DK area, an aristocratic house was a two story building, with access to the well even from the second floor.

 

“The Old Street” as it is called is the Main Street. On both sides it was lined with shops.

Recently, many domestic tourists of Pakistan have increased in visiting this site. Particularly at sunset, you will see many people.

Unfortunately, the time I visited Mohenjo-daro it was too cloudy to catch a good sunset. But my personal recommendation is to visit early in the morning, when you can enjoy “the deserted city of Mohenjo-daro.” without other tourists.

Photo & Text: Mariko SAWADA
Visit: Feb 2020, Nov 2019,  Mohenjo-daro, Sindh

*For inquiries and consultation, please go to Indus Caravan

*Please follow us on YoutubeInstagram & Facebook

Category : - Mohenjodaro > - Monument / Heritage of Sindh > ◆ Sindh > ◇ Heritage of Pakistan
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

(video) Hidden Jewels on the Makran Coast – Captivating Mud Volcano

We could travel to more remote areas of the breathtaking shoreline along the Makran Coast. In the winter of 2019, the active Mud Volcanoes were unforgettable. It was amazing to see the mud bubbling up at your feet! I have seen Mud Volcanoes before, but this was a new experience all together!

Video & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit :Nov 2019, Makran Coast, Balochistan

Category : = Video clip Balochistan > - Mud Volcano > ◆ Video Breathtaking Views of Pakistan > - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan > - Makran Coast
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

(video) Bird’s Eye View of Princess of Hope & Buzi Pass

Traveling from Kund Malir to Ormara, just off of the Makran Coastal Highway you will find the Buzi Pass.
Just near the Kund Malir Beach, the famous “Princess of Hope” will greet you. Even though I cannot see the princess in the shape, if you happen to be there on a weekend in the afternoon, you will see many local tourists surrounding the Princess.
Enjoy the magnificent view of Buzi Pass and nature’s art landscaping using erosion.

Video & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit :Nov 2019, Makran Coastal Highway, Balochistan

Category : = Video clip Balochistan > - Mud Volcano > ◆ Video Breathtaking Views of Pakistan > - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan > - Makran Coast
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

(video) Deep Inside Hingol Narional Park – Hidden Landscapes of Balochistan 

Deep Inside Hingol Narional Park – Hidden Landscapes of Balochistan

Hingol National Park’s remote offroad backcountry exploration reveals the world of Mud Volcanoes.

Starting in the winter of 2018, after my third visit, I could finally make it to “Mars Point” which is named unofficially by our staff. Even though of course, none of us have ever been to Mars, but standing here in this landscape makes you feel like “This is not Earth!”

Thank you for the came in our video, Mr. Toshiki Nakanishi (professional photographer).

 

Video (Drone footage) & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit :Nov 2019, Hingol National Park, Balochistan

Category : = Video clip Balochistan > - Mud Volcano > ◆ Video Breathtaking Views of Pakistan > - Hingol National Park > ◆ Balochistan > - Makran Coast
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

(video) Northern Pakistan, Autumn the Hunza Valley, a hidden paradise

Northern Pakistan, Autumn the Hunza Valley

In the past, the main tourist season of Pakistan was mainly in the  summertime, but now many people are travelling to see the apricot blossoms in the spring or to see the autumnal colors of the fall season.

And it is quite remarkable.

This drone footage is nice, but the view from the hotel terrace is indeed just as spectacular and the mountains and orchards make you feel like you are in a real hidden paradise.

The autumn comes a little later each year, due to the unfortunate effects of climate change. However, in Hunza and in the upper reaches of the Hunza, each village is at its own elevation and exposure to sunlight is different, causing just enough variety of options, to be sure to catch the beautiful scenery in one of them.

Villagers also prepare for the winter during this time. Potatoes are distributed and the livestock return from the highland pastures back down to the villages.

 

Video & text : Mariko SAWADA

Visit : Oct 2018, Hunza, Upper Hunza,  Gilgit-Baltistan

Category : = Video Clip Gilgit-Baltistan > ◆ Video Breathtaking Views of Pakistan > ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Hunza Valley > - Gojar > - Morkhun > - Passu
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Autumn in the Kalash Valley

After not having been able to visit in a few years, I was able to return to the valley of the Kalash people, to a village called Bumburet. Mid-October proved to be a truly beautiful time to visit with the fall colors and corn harvest taking place.

On October 16, 2019, the Royal Couple Prince William and his wife visited Kalasha Valley where they enjoyed seeing traditional dances. The social media and news was flooded with “The Royal Couple” and “Kalasha” where trending amongst the Pakistani people.

> Kalash Valley “Where did the Kalash people come from?”

>Religion of Kalash Valley

 

Taking a turn off the main road, and crossing the bridge brings you into Ayrun village. It is like traveling back in time. You will see as you enter into the village, narrow fields and the beautiful traditional Pakistan. You will eventually come to the intersection of Bumburet and Rumbur Villages.

 

The road into Bumburet village hasn’t changed. It is still the small dirt road that has pull-offs to allow two small cars to pass each other.
However, as we entered into the village, I was a little shocked at the changes I saw. The women we saw were dressed in the traditional Karasha clothing but about half of them were also wearing the shalwar kameez (national dress of Pakistan). And the number of guesthouses was a bit overwhelming.

Where did the traditional style houses go? In recent years, an increase in domestic tours and a shortage of lodges for the tourists to stay, naturally meant that the number of guesthouses increased suddenly. Most of the managers of these guesthouses are from the outside. I hoped they would build them in the traditional style to match the landscape and keep the flavor of the original village.

 

Walking on a path between the corn fields, I went to visit an acquaintance. The Kalasha children I met on the way.

 

This is the School  dress of the Kalasha young ladies. There seems to be more girls wearing scarves then before.

 

Just off the main road through the village I could see this beautiful figure taking a walk.

 

Children playing next to a cornfield where their parents are busy harvesting.

 

No on can stop change that comes with progress, but I hope that these beautiful sights can continue into the future.

 

On the way out from the Kalasha Valley, we could see the village of Ayun sitting at the base of Tirich Mir. The highest peak of Hindu Kush is Tirich Mir (or Terichmir stands at 7,708 meters) was bathed in the hues of the setting sun.

 

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit : Oct 2019, Bomboret Village, Kalash Valley, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

Category : ◆Khyber Pakhtunkhwa > - Kalash Valley
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Excellent Fishing! Kund Malir Fishing Port (Balochistan)

While camping around Kund Malir, there was a night with no waves or wind and we could see the fishing light thru the darkness of night. The next morning of such a calm night, we visited the fishing port.

 

Kund Malir is a really small fishing port. The system here is that the larger fishing vessles off load their catch to the smaller fishing boats to bring them into the beach. When we arrived at the beach, there were already many boats out gathering off the harbor.

 

This is the fishing boat. They had already caught so many fish. As I was wondering what fish that was…I found out it was a largehead hairtail (or beltfish). They say that these adult beltfish come to the surface of the sea in the early morning hours.

 

The smaller fishing boats offload their catch onto the beach for transport.

 

Locals carry the fish to the trucks. Even in such a small fishing village there is an Ice Factory. The fish are packed in ice and transported directly to Karachi.

 

The local people all pitch in to help with the haul. They were kind enough to allow us to see their catch for today.

 

These are the largehead hairtail. Now that we have seen them, we cannot resist buying a little. Such a fresh catch! We loaded it in our cooler and took it to camp. Working with our cook Noor, we prepared the 15 beltfish and made sashimi. We grilled some with salt over the charcoal and ate our Fish Nanban (escabeche). It turned out to be a gourmet meal with our steamed Japanese rice and all kinds of prepared fish for dinner.

 

At our campsite, we dined on our fresh fish sashimi with the beer and wine we brought along with us.

 

This really amazing beltfish grilled with salt…was beyond delicious. This night, there were 7 Japanese people to gorge themselves on the 15 fish that were prepared. In my many long years of travelling thru Pakistan, it turned out to be the best dinner I ever had.

 

Photo & text : Mariko SAWADA (Including photos taken from drone footage)
Visit: Nov 2019, Kund Malir, Balochistan

Category : - Kund Malir > ◆ Balochistan
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Kashmir Markhor – Gahirat Castle 1912

A lovely place to stay …  a  hotel introduced by a hunter acquaintance for the observation of Kashmir Markhor, Gahirat Castle Hotel 1912.

There are several hotels in the Chitral area that belong to the former Chitral princely state. Gahirat Castle 1912 is one of that and it has a private game reserve of 95,000 hectares, where about 700 Kashmir Markhors live.

 

In the morning and evening, you can see Hindu Kush’s highest peak Tirich Mir 7,708m from the vicinity of the Gahirat Castle. The perfect view beyond the wide Chitral Valley.

 

Gahirat Community Game Reserve—It is in a mountainous area, upstream of the Gahirat River. It’s vegetation is an ideal environment for Kashmir Markhor and the valley is narrow which is suitable for our observation as well.

 

A female Kashmir Markhor continuously looking at us.

In 2009, when the current owner began protecting Kashmir Markhor, the game reserve had only about 60 Kashmir Markhor.   Consequently through protection in accordance with the rules of trophy hunting and enforcement of laws against illegal hunting, it is said that number has increased to about 700 as of 2019.

Trophy hunting at the Gahirat Community Game Reserve has a quota of one Kashmir Markhor per year.  The amount of shooting permit from the government starts from about USD 100,000 (It is a surprise).  This is a system in which a hunting company drops it at an auction and sells it to customers. Most of this revenue is returned to the community. Nine gamekeepers were cracking down on illegal hunting for one trophy hunting in this game reserve.

 

Official trophy hunting began in 2000 at Gahirat Community Game Reserve, and there are 18 records by 2019.  The trophy hunting is limited to those old males with more than 40 inches horns.

The Kashmir Markhor displayed in the hotel’s living room is the trophy of the current owner’s grandfather, with 58 inches horn, the third-largest Kashmir Markhor trophy in the world.

To be honest, I don’t accept hunting or trophy hunting but I think it’s much better than the time when illegal hunting was rampant, encouraging local residents to understand conservation even the purpose for Trophy hunting.

 

Finally, when you come back from the Game Reserve, Gahirat Castle 1912 is a wonderful place to stay.  When you enter the building, you will be greeted by the historical heritage gems.

 

Pair of Himalayan Bulbul.

 

At 6:30 in the morning, you can hear the birds chirping. A blissful moment to go out in the middle of the garden and observe the birds.
I observed a good number of Himalayan Bulbul, White-eared Bulbul, Blue-whistling Thrush, Great Tit, Eurasian tree sparrow, Bank Myna, Streaked Laughingthrush, etc.
A great stay in nature, the Gahirat Castle 1912.

 

Photo & text : Mariko SAWADA
Visit :Oct 2019, Gahirat Castle 1912 & Gahirat Community Game Reserve, Chitral, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

Category : ◆Khyber Pakhtunkhwa > - Markhor > - Chitral > ◇ Wildlife of Pakistan
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Himalayan Brown Bear in Summer – Deosai National Park

The Deosai Plateau – Land of the Giants – on the border with India is known as a habitat for the Himalayan brown bears.

However, it is not something you can see easily if you go to the Deosai Plateau. In addition, It has been a target of hunting for many years. They are very timid and run away quickly.
Furthermore, there are too many tourists in summer, and Himalayan brown bears go deep in the valley. So you have to walk a lot to meet them.

From a camp at altitude of about 4,000m, we went up to a valley where the altitude rises a little and countless creeks flow.

 

Suddenly the accompanying ranger shouted with surprise, “Bear!”

I quickly took out tripod and snapped the picture with the best possible zoom.
Two bears! A Mother bear and its cub. Wait… The mother bear is observing something.

 

It was a male Himalayan brown bear that the mother bear was looking at.
Mother bear and cub walked towards us in the grass along the creek avoiding this male.

Luckily, we were downwind and were able to come to a relatively closer position for observation of the Himalayan brown bear without being noticed by the bear.

 

Oh, bear cub found us, looking at us how cute!

 

Mother bear also found us, standing upright and staring at us.

 

Finally both of them looking at us. A dreamy camera angle. After this, unfortunately the two headed away.

 

Afterwards, Mommy bear and cub appeared a little away. They were moving while searching various things in the grassland.

 

When a cub was doing strange actions on the rock, they were observing another female Himalayan brown bear.
The other female bear completely ignored them and passed across them.

 

After that, the cub bear had a little sleep and played in the pastures.

 

At last, the mommy bear and cub went over the hill. It was really a beautiful, unforgettable sight.

 

Photo & Text : Mariko SAWADA
Observation : Jul 2017, Deosai National Park, Gilgit-Baltistan
Reference : Mr. Ghulman Raza – Deosai National Park, Mr. Zahoor Salmi (late)

Category : ◆ Gilgit-Baltistan > - Himalayan Brown Bear > - Deosai National Park
Tag : , , , , , , , , , , , , ,